Vehicle Title Brands Explained

What is a branded title?

A branded title is a vehicle title that has been marked (or "branded") by a state motor vehicle agency to indicate the car has a significant issue or a history buyers should know about. Unlike a clean title (which has no such marks), a branded title will contain a label describing the problem – for example, Salvage, Flood, Rebuilt, etc. This brand is an official, permanent notation on the title document, meant to warn future owners of past damage or other issues. Branded titles are typically issued when a vehicle has suffered major damage (such as a serious accident, flooding, or fire) or other significant problems (like an odometer rollback or manufacturer buyback) that affect its safety, value, or usability. By law, once a vehicle’s title is branded, that designation stays with the vehicle’s record for its lifetime – even if the car is later repaired, the title will always contain the historical brand (note that the active brand can change depending on a car’s circumstances).

What types of branded titles exist?

There are many title brand categories recognized across U.S. states. While each state may use its own terminology, a national system unifies about 80 different brands. Below is a complete list of major title brands for passenger vehicles, along with what each one means:

Salvage Title: Indicates the vehicle was declared a total loss due to severe damage or loss. This often happens after a major collision, flood, fire, or other disaster when an insurance company deems repair costs to be near or above the car’s value. A car with a salvage title is typically not roadworthy and cannot be registered or driven until it is repaired and passes a state inspection for safety. Salvage titles tell buyers the car was essentially “totaled” at some point.
Salvage Retention: The owner kept possession of a vehicle after it was branded “Salvage”. In other words, instead of the insurance company taking the salvaged vehicle, the original owner retained it (often to repair it themselves). The title reflects that it’s a salvage vehicle retained by the owner. This is the same brand as “Owner Retained”.
Totaled: The vehicle has been declared a total loss by an insurance company or jurisdiction. In practice, this often overlaps with “Salvage,” but “Totaled” as a brand specifically notes that the cost to repair exceeded the vehicle’s value, or an insurer paid out a total loss claim.
Rebuilt Title (Reconstructed): A rebuilt title (sometimes called reconstructed) is assigned to a vehicle that was previously salvaged but has since been repaired and certified roadworthy by passing required inspections. In other words, the car was once a total loss but has been restored to drivable condition. The title’s rebuilt brand lets buyers know the vehicle had major damage in the past, even though it’s now usable. (Some states use terms like “Prior Salvage” or “Revived Salvage” for this status.)
Owner Retained: The vehicle was declared a total loss, but the owner kept the vehicle rather than surrendering it to the insurance company. The title shows “Owner Retained” to signal that, after the loss, the original owner retained possession (often to repair or salvage it themselves). This is the same brand as “Salvage Retention”.
Prior Owner Retained: This vehicle previously had an “Owner Retained” brand and was later sold to a new owner. In other words, after an insurance total loss where the original owner kept the car, that car was then sold – and the new title carries “Prior Owner Retained” to reflect that history.
Junk/Non-Repairable/Parts Only Title: This brand means the vehicle is permanently unsuitable for road use and has no reasonable repair value. A junk, dismantled, or non-repairable vehicle can only be sold for parts or scrap – it can never legally be driven or re-titled for highway use. Essentially, the car is fit only for the junkyard to provide parts and/or scrap value.
Flood Damage Title: Indicates the vehicle sustained water damage from flooding. Flood damage can be especially insidious – even after repairs, a flood-damaged car might have long-term electrical or corrosion issues that aren’t immediately apparent. Some states distinguish between freshwater flood and saltwater flood damage because saltwater flooding is particularly corrosive to the vehicle’s metal components and wiring, but in general any significant water intrusion leading to an insurance total loss will result in a flood title brand.
Fire Damage Title: Signifies the vehicle has suffered significant fire damage. This could result from an engine fire, garage fire, wildfire, etc. A fire-damaged car might have structural and electrical issues due to heat, and if the fire damage was extensive enough for an insurance total loss, the title gets branded accordingly.
Hail Damage Title: Used when a vehicle is heavily damaged by a hailstorm – for instance, hundreds of dents on the body, broken glass, etc. If the hail damage repair costs exceed the car’s value, insurance may total the car and the title will be branded with hail damage. This brand is common in regions prone to severe hail.
Collision: The vehicle sustained major damage from a collision (accident). This brand is used in some jurisdictions to specifically indicate accident damage that is distinct from flood, fire, etc.
Vandalism Damage: Some states have a brand for major vandalism damage. This applies if a car was intentionally damaged (for example, keyed extensively, windows smashed, interior ruined) and deemed a total loss. The title would note vandalism so buyers know the history.
Theft or Recovered Theft: If a car was stolen and not recovered in a timely manner, insurance might pay out a total loss and the title can be branded (often as a type of salvage) due to theft. If the vehicle is later recovered, it may carry a Recovered Theft brand or a salvage brand indicating theft recovery. This tells future owners that the car was once stolen and likely had been declared a loss before being found.
Odometer Rollback / Not Actual Mileage: These brands relate to odometer fraud or inaccuracy. If there is evidence the odometer was tampered with to show lower mileage than actually driven, the title gets an “Odometer Rollback” or “Not Actual Mileage” brand. Similarly, if an odometer broke or exceeded its mechanical limits (common in older cars with 5-digit odometers rolling over), a brand like “Exceeds Mechanical Limits” might be used. Any odometer-related brand is a warning that the mileage on the odometer cannot be trusted as the true miles.
Call Title Division: There is a known odometer issue that cannot be printed on the title, and the DMV requires further inquiry. This brand tells any subsequent titling agency or authorized user that they must contact the state’s title division for details about an unresolved odometer problem. It’s a placeholder for a problem that needs special handling.
Undisclosed Lien: The vehicle came from a state or situation where a prior lien (loan) on the vehicle was not disclosed on the title. This brand warns that there might be an outstanding financial lien on the car. Typically, if the new state doesn’t receive any lien notice within a certain period, they may remove this brand.
Lemon Law Buyback (Manufacturer Buyback): This brand (often labeled “Manufacturer Buyback”, “Lemon Law Vehicle”, or “Warranty Return”) is given to cars that were repurchased by the manufacturer due to persistent defects. Under state lemon laws, if a new vehicle has a serious problem that can’t be fixed after multiple attempts, the automaker must buy it back. That vehicle’s title is then branded to indicate it’s a “lemon law buyback.” This alerts future buyers that the car had chronic mechanical or quality issues (even if those might have been repaired later).
Prior Taxi / Police / Fleet: Some states brand vehicles that were previously used as taxicabs, police cars, or other commercial fleet vehicles. These might be labeled “Prior Taxi” or “Prior Police” on the title. The purpose is to inform buyers that the car saw heavy duty use (often with high mileage and wear) in a commercial service. Similarly, a few states use “Former Rental” to denote a car that was once a rental vehicle. While these brands aren’t damage-related, they flag that the vehicle’s past usage was intense.
Original Taxi / Police: The vehicle is currently registered as a taxi or in use by a police department (at the time of titling). This brand would typically appear if the vehicle is in active taxi/police service and thus carries the designation on its title. If sold to the public it would then likely carry a “Prior Taxi”/”Prior Police” brand afterward.
Antique / Classic Vehicle: Titles for older collectible cars can receive antique or classic designations. An Antique brand typically means the vehicle is over a certain age (e.g. over 50 years old) and kept for historical interest. Classic usually means over 20 or 25 years old and meeting specific criteria. These brands aren’t negative; they simply classify the vehicle for registration and hobby purposes. Antique or classic vehicles can have usage restrictions in some states.
Kit / Reconstructed / Replica: These brands indicate a vehicle was built or modified significantly and not made by a major manufacturer in its current form. A Kit Car brand, for example, means the vehicle was assembled from a kit or from parts of various vehicles (the VIN on the chassis becomes the car’s VIN). A Reconstructed brand might be used if a car has been permanently altered by removing or changing major components (beyond normal repair). A Replica brand applies if a vehicle’s body was made to resemble another make/model/year (common for hobbyist replicas of classic cars). These titles tell buyers the vehicle is not in original factory condition and was custom-built or heavily modified.
Vehicle Contains Reissued VIN: The vehicle’s VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) was reused or reissued, usually by a state, on a new title. Essentially, the chassis VIN has been duplicated or reassigned. This can happen in error or due to certain state procedures, and the brand flags a potential VIN discrepancy issue.
VIN Replaced by a New State Assigned VIN: The original VIN was replaced with a state-assigned VIN at some point. This often happens if a vehicle’s VIN plate was tampered with or the vehicle was reconstructed – the state issues a new identification number. Titles with this brand should not be issued under the old VIN (to prevent fraud).
Export Only: This brand is used for vehicles that are allowed to be sold only for export out of the U.S. due to their status. Typically, a car with an Export Only brand was salvaged or junked in the U.S. and is not legal to re-title or register domestically – it can only be shipped overseas. This prevents severely damaged or unsafe vehicles from sneaking back onto American roads.
Test Vehicle: A vehicle built and retained by the manufacturer strictly for testing purposes (such as engineering evaluations or demonstrations). These vehicles may later be sold, but the title will note their use as manufacturer test cars (which could mean they were prototypes or had non-standard use).
Refurbished: A vehicle that has been modified by installing a new cab or chassis onto an existing body (or otherwise significantly renovated). This results in a “refurbished” vehicle with improved or updated components, often creating a vehicle of greater value or a new style from an older platform.
Remanufactured: A vehicle that has been reconstructed by a licensed manufacturer. This often refers to vehicles assembled from new with components from a manufacturer (for example, specialty built vehicles or glider kit assemblies). The vehicle is essentially “re-manufactured” and assigned a brand to reflect that.
Gray Market Vehicle: A vehicle manufactured for use outside of the United States, but later imported into the U.S. Such a vehicle may not have been built to U.S. safety or emissions standards, meaning it could require modifications to be street-legal.
Agricultural Vehicle: The vehicle is intended for primarily off-road use in farming or agriculture. It’s usually operated on private farm roads/fields and not meant for general highway use (for example, a farm-use truck or equipment carrier).
Logging Vehicle: The vehicle is intended primarily for off-road use in logging operations. This brand would be seen on trucks or equipment used in logging camps, meant to warn that the vehicle may not meet requirements for normal highway operation.
Street Rod: A vehicle that has been modified for style or performance such that it no longer conforms to the original manufacturer’s specifications. Typically this refers to classic cars modified into hot rods under specific guidelines. They are often older cars with a modern engine, suspension, custom bodywork, etc.
Bond Posted: A brand indicating an insurance bond was posted for the vehicle because proof of ownership was uncertain. This often occurs when someone seeks a title for a vehicle with missing paperwork; a surety bond is filed to indemnify any potential prior owner claims. (Note: this brand is no longer used in some states after 2003, as the process changed.)
Memorandum Copy: This signifies the title presented was a “memo copy” or facsimile of the original. In other words, it’s not the active, official title. A vehicle with this brand needs the original title for ownership transfer (a memorandum copy alone isn’t sufficient).
Disclosed Damage: The vehicle sustained significant damage that was legally required to be disclosed, yet it wasn’t necessarily deemed a total loss. This brand comes from jurisdictions with damage disclosure laws – it flags that the car had major damage (below the total-loss threshold) that the seller had to report to subsequent buyers.
Prior Non-Repairable / Repaired: A vehicle that was branded non-repairable (junk) but was later repaired contrary to that non-repairable status. Essentially, the vehicle was supposed to be destroyed or used for parts only, yet it has been rebuilt and issued a title again under a state’s specific laws. This brand on the title indicates that history very clearly to inform any future buyer.
Non-conformity (Uncorrected): A non-safety manufacturing defect or recall issue with the vehicle has been reported but not fixed. This brand often relates to manufacturer buybacks or similar scenarios where a defect (not related to safety) remains unresolved.
Non-conformity (Corrected): A previously reported non-safety defect has been corrected. The vehicle had an issue (not safety-related) that was repaired, and the brand indicates the prior defect was fixed.
Safety Defect (Uncorrected): A safety-related defect (such as a serious recall issue) is outstanding on the vehicle – it was reported by the manufacturer but has not been repaired yet. This brand shows that an important safety fix is needed.
Safety Defect (Corrected): A previously reported safety defect has been fixed. This indicates the vehicle had a safety recall/defect that has since been remedied.
Crushed: The vehicle’s frame or chassis has been crushed or otherwise destroyed. It is impossible to use this vehicle to reconstruct a working car – its only use is scrap.
Hazardous: The vehicle was contaminated by a hazardous substance and is considered unsafe to use. This goes beyond normal flood damage – it means chemical, biological, or radiological contamination (for example, a car that was in a toxic flood or used in a meth lab) that makes it dangerous to occupy or drive.
Pending Junk Automobile: Under the 2009 federal Car Allowance Rebate System (“Cash for Clunkers”) program, the vehicle has an application pending to be scrapped. If approved, the car must be destroyed (never to be driven again) – it cannot be resold or registered except as parts/scrap.
Junk Automobile: Also from the Consumer Assistance to Recycle and Save Act of 2009, this indicates the vehicle was accepted into the program and is slated for destruction. The car has no value except for parts and scrap metal, and it must be crushed or shredded; it cannot be legally returned to the road.

(Note: Some states may have additional niche title brands or use slightly different names, but the above are the most commonly encountered brands for passenger cars.)

How can I check if a vehicle has a branded title?

Before buying a used car, it’s important to verify the title status to see if it’s branded. Here are steps and tools you can use to check for any title brands:

Examine the title document: If possible, ask to see the physical title for the vehicle. Look closely at the paper title (or electronic title printout) for any brand notation. Titles will plainly say things like “Salvage”, “Rebuilt Salvage”, “Flood”, or similar if the vehicle has ever been branded. The brand might be printed in a special section or stamped on the title. If the seller refuses to show you the title or claims it’s “lost,” consider that a red flag – they might be hiding a brand.
Run a vehicle history report: Services like CARFAX, AutoCheck, or NMVTIS-based reports like VIN Lookup or iSeeCars’ Vehicle History Reports can reveal title brands and the vehicle’s history. By entering the car’s VIN, you can see if any state has reported a salvage title, rebuilt title, lemon buyback, odometer issue, or other brand in the past. These reports also typically show accident records and insurance total loss records, which often coincide with branded titles. There is usually a fee for full history reports, but these reports provide detailed information.
Use free online tools: You can also leverage free resources for a basic check. For example, the National Insurance Crime Bureau (NICB) offers a free VIN Check tool that will tell you if a VIN has been reported as salvage or stolen in participating insurance databases. This is a quick way to catch major problems, though it may not be as comprehensive as a paid report. Additionally, some state DMVs offer free online title checks by VIN, and you can always call your state DMV with the VIN to ask about the title status.
Watch out for title washing: If the vehicle has ever been titled in another state, be extra vigilant. Title washing is an illegal practice where sellers move a car to a different state to remove or hide its branded title status. For instance, a car branded as salvage in one state might reappear with a “clean” title in another state that didn’t carry over the brand. Always obtain a nationwide title history (via NMVTIS or a nationwide service) to see if the car had a brand in any state. This can help you spot inconsistencies.

What should I do if I discover a branded title on a car I own or am thinking of buying?

Finding out a vehicle has a branded title can be concerning. The steps you take will depend on whether you already own the vehicle or are just considering purchasing it. Below are guidelines for each situation:

If you already own the vehicle and discover it’s branded:

Stay calm and gather information: First, confirm what type of brand it is (salvage, rebuilt, etc.) and why it was branded. You can use the methods above (VIN history reports, DMV records) to learn the history behind the title brand. Understanding the severity of the past damage or issue will help inform your next steps.
Ensure the car is safe: If the brand relates to damage (like salvage, flood, or fire), you’ll want to make sure the vehicle is truly roadworthy. Consider having a trusted mechanic perform a thorough inspection of the car’s critical components (engine, frame, airbags, electrical system, etc.). Damage from past accidents or floods can sometimes be inadequately repaired; an inspection can reveal any safety concerns that need attention.
Notify your insurance company: It’s important to let your insurer know if the car’s title is branded (if they don’t already). Some insurance companies have restrictions on coverage for salvage or rebuilt vehicles – for example, they may only offer liability coverage but not comprehensive/collision for a rebuilt salvage car. It’s better to be upfront and ensure you have appropriate insurance than to discover at claim time that a repair isn’t covered.
Review your financing (if applicable): If you have an auto loan on the vehicle, check your loan terms. Banks typically do not finance cars with salvage titles, so if the brand was undisclosed and the bank unknowingly gave you a loan, it could create complications. You may need to discuss this with your lender. In some cases, the lender might require additional collateral or even demand loan repayment if the title status violates the loan agreement.
Know your legal rights: In many states, sellers (and dealers especially) are legally required to disclose a salvage or rebuilt title to buyers. If you bought the car under the impression it had a clean title, and the seller hid the brand, you may have legal recourse. Gather any evidence (ads, communications, the paperwork you received) and consider contacting your state’s consumer protection office or an attorney. Fraudulently failing to disclose a branded title can be grounds for unwinding the sale or suing for damages. (At the very least, you should report the seller to the authorities to prevent future buyers from being misled.)
Evaluate your options with the car: Once you know the full situation, decide what’s best for you. You might choose to keep the car if it’s safe and meets your needs – just be aware of its reduced market value and potential future issues. If the car has unresolved problems or you’ve lost trust in it, you could repair it further (if economically feasible) or consider selling it. Selling a branded-title car can be challenging (buyers will be wary), but there are companies that specialize in buying salvage/rebuilt cars if you go that route. In extreme cases (e.g., the vehicle is unsafe and not worth fixing), scrapping the car for parts is an option. Make sure to disclose the title brand to any new buyer – transparency is important (and often legally required).

If you are considering buying a vehicle with a branded title:

Do extra homework and inspections: Purchasing a car with a known brand requires due diligence. Obtain a full vehicle history report and study the details of the incident that led to the brand. Absolutely have an independent mechanic inspect the vehicle before you buy – preferably one experienced in post-accident repairs if it’s a salvage/rebuilt. They can assess if the repairs were done correctly and spot red flags (like frame damage or water damage remnants). Vet the car’s condition thoroughly as past damage may leave lingering issues.
Ask for documentation: A reputable seller should be able to provide repair records, receipts, or photos related to the car’s repair work. For example, if it’s a rebuilt salvage car, ask for the before-and-after photos or a list of parts that were replaced. If it’s a lemon law buyback, ask what the specific defect was and if it has been repaired. Documentation helps you verify the story and quality of work done. Be wary of a seller who has no details on why the title is branded.
Check insurance and financing in advance: Before finalizing a purchase, contact your insurance company and inform them of the car’s branded title status. Get a quote for coverage so you know if insurance will be available and affordable (some insurers won’t fully insure branded titles, or may charge higher premiums). Similarly, if you need a loan, check with your bank or credit union – many lenders won’t finance a branded title car, so you might need to arrange a specialty loan or pay cash. It’s better to discover these obstacles beforehand.
Make sure the price is right: One big attraction of branded title vehicles is a lower price. Indeed, such cars typically sell at prices substantially below the price of an equivalent car with a clean title. This lower value reflects the stigma and risks attached. Be sure the asking price accounts for the brand. Use pricing guides or look up similar branded-title sales to judge the value. Don’t overpay for a car with a troubled history – you should be getting a significant discount for taking on the added risk.
Understand the registration process: If you’re buying a salvage vehicle that hasn’t been rebuilt yet, or one from out-of-state, familiarize yourself with your state’s title procedures. For example, a salvage vehicle usually needs to be repaired and then pass a state inspection to get a rebuilt title before you can register it. If the car is coming from another state with a rebuilt title, your state DMV may still require an inspection or paperwork to recognize it. Know what paperwork is needed so you don’t get stuck with a car you can’t register immediately.
Be prepared for future challenges: Owning a branded title car can save you money upfront, but expect some hurdles down the line. Resale will be tougher – many buyers avoid branded titles, and you’ll have to explain the history and likely sell at a substantial discount. Maintenance or hidden issues might crop up related to the past damage (for instance, a flooded car could have electrical gremlins). If you’re a knowledgeable buyer and plan to keep the car long-term, a branded title deal can be worth it. Just go in with eyes wide open. If you feel uneasy about any aspect of the car’s history or the seller’s transparency, it may be wise to walk away and find a vehicle with a clean title instead. Remember, there are always other cars out there.

How is a branded title different from a lemon law (buyback) title?

A “lemon law” title – more accurately called a manufacturer buyback – is actually one specific type of branded title, but it refers to a very different scenario than damage-related brands. Here’s how they compare:

Cause of the title brand: A branded title (in general) usually stems from physical damage or an event that happened to the vehicle – for example, a crash, flood, fire, theft, or other incident that made the car a total loss. In contrast, a lemon law buyback title is due to chronic mechanical defects: the vehicle had repeated problems under warranty that couldn’t be fixed, prompting the manufacturer to repurchase the car. In short, branded titles flag past damage, while lemon titles flag an unfixable lemon (defective car).
When it applies: Lemon law buybacks typically involve new or nearly-new cars (often within the first year or two of purchase) because lemon laws cover problems that appear early in a car’s life during the warranty period. Other branded titles (like salvage, etc.) can apply to vehicles at any age if a severe incident occurs. For example, a 10-year-old car can get a salvage title after a bad accident, but it wouldn’t get a lemon title since lemon laws don’t cover older used cars.
Resolution and status: With a salvage-branded vehicle, the assumption is it was heavily damaged and might have been repaired afterward (if put back on the road under a rebuilt title). The branded title remains as a record of that past damage, but the car could be made roadworthy again. In a lemon buyback situation, the vehicle was repurchased by the manufacturer because they couldn’t fully repair its defect. The car may then be fixed (or not) and resold, but the lemon brand warns that it had serious unresolved issues at the time of buyback.
Implications for buyers: Both types of titles significantly reduce a vehicle’s value and signal caution. However, the concerns they raise are a bit different. A branded salvage/flood car might have hidden structural or safety issues from the damage, whereas a lemon law car might have recurring performance/reliability issues that could resurface. Insurance and financing can be tricky for both. Importantly, lemon law titles are less common and only apply to cars that met legal criteria of a “lemon,” while branded titles as a whole cover a broad range of bad histories. In any case, if you’re considering either, you should fully understand what happened and proceed carefully. Buyers should weigh the potential risks in both scenarios – a deeply discounted price might not be worth it if the car comes with future headaches.