How to Verify a VIN

What is a VIN?

A Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is a unique 17-character code assigned to every car, truck, or motorcycle manufactured for road use in the U.S. since 1981. This alphanumeric code acts like a vehicle’s fingerprint – no two vehicles have the same VIN. A VIN reveals details like the vehicle’s manufacturer, vehicle type, year, and unique serial number. (Notably, the letters I, O, and Q are never used in VINs to avoid confusion with 1 and 0.) VINs are used by government agencies, insurance companies, and manufacturers to track registrations, recalls, thefts, and title history.

Before 1981, VIN formats were not standardized and could vary in length. If you are dealing with a car older than 1981, its VIN may be shorter (e.g. 5-13 characters) and modern VIN lookup tools might not recognize it. In those cases, you may need to contact the manufacturer or state DMV to get its vehicle history and other information. For all modern vehicles, however, the 17-digit VIN is the key to verifying the car’s identity and history.

Where to Find the VIN on a Vehicle

Every vehicle displays its VIN in several places. The dashboard VIN plate is typically on the driver’s side, at the base of the windshield, and can be read from outside the car. Another primary location is the driver’s door jamb – open the door and look for a sticker on the frame or edge of the door with the VIN and other details (like tire pressure and build date). Modern vehicles often have the VIN stamped on the engine firewall or under the hood as well. The VIN also appears on vehicle documents, including a car’s title, registration, and insurance card, all of which will list the VIN.

Most cars also have secondary VIN locations to deter tampering or theft. For example, you might find the VIN etched on the engine block, the frame, or in the trunk (under the spare tire or on the trunk lid). Manufacturers put VINs in multiple locations specifically to prevent criminals from simply swapping a single VIN tag to alter a vehicle’s identity and commit fraud. When verifying a VIN, be sure to compare all visible VIN locations – they should all match exactly. If you notice a discrepancy (even a single digit off) between the VIN on the dashboard and the door, or between the car and its paperwork, treat that as a red flag to investigate further.

Why VIN Verification Matters

Verifying a VIN is a critical step before buying any used vehicle. The VIN unlocks the car’s recorded history – allowing you to check for accidents, title problems, ownership history, and more. Skipping a VIN check and relying only on the seller’s word is risky because you could end up with a stolen car, a flood-damaged vehicle, a rolled-back odometer, or a car with undisclosed repairs and a salvage-branded title. Here are the major risks a VIN check can reveal:

• Title Brands (Salvage/Flood/Rebuilt): A VIN lookup will reveal if a state has ever branded the title (e.g. salvage, rebuilt, flood, junk). A salvage title means the vehicle was declared a total loss by an insurance company. A rebuilt or reconstructed title means a salvaged vehicle was repaired and inspected. Flood or water damage brands indicate the car suffered severe water damage. These brands significantly affect value and safety – you need to know about them before purchase.

• Theft Status: By running the VIN, you can learn if the vehicle is reported stolen (and not recovered). The National Insurance Crime Bureau (NICB) offers a free VIN check service that will flag theft records from participating insurance companies. Buying a car that turns out to be stolen can result in the car being seized by police and you losing both the vehicle and the money you paid.

• Odometer Rollback: VIN-based reports can reveal inconsistent odometer readings. If a VIN report shows the car had 120,000 miles a year ago but the odometer now reads 60,000, that signals odometer fraud. Tampering with odometers is illegal, and a rolled-back odometer means the car likely has much more wear-and-tear than advertised.

• Accident and Damage History: A VIN lookup through services like Carfax or AutoCheck can show past accident records and insurance claims. Major accidents, especially those causing frame or structural damage, can affect the car’s safety and value. While not all accidents are reported, a VIN history often lists police-reported crashes or insurance repairs.

• Liens or Financial Issues: The VIN is tied to the vehicle’s title record. A VIN check can sometimes reveal if there’s an active lien on the car (money owed to a bank) or if it’s marked as rebuilt after being a total loss. You don’t want to buy a car that a lender could repossess because the previous owner still owes money on it.

Verifying the VIN helps you confirm that the car is what the seller claims. It ensures the paperwork matches the physical car and uncovers any hidden problems. This due diligence can save you from fraud, unsafe vehicles, and legal headaches down the road.

Steps to Verify a VIN’s Authenticity and History

Verifying a VIN involves both physical inspection of the vehicle and online research into its history. Below is a step-by-step guide:

1. Match the VIN with both the Car and its Documents

Start by comparing the VIN on the car in multiple places and on the vehicle’s documents. Ensure the VIN on the dashboard, door jamb, and the title/registration are identical. Take your time and verify every character. VINs are long, so mistakes can happen – a seller might accidentally advertise a wrong VIN or transpose characters, which could return the wrong history report. If even one character is off, the VIN will refer to a different vehicle.

Check for tampering signs on the VIN plates. Look at the rivets holding the dashboard VIN plate – are they factory-original? Scratches, misaligned characters, or glue residues on the VIN tag could indicate it was altered or replaced. Similarly, inspect the door jamb sticker. If the VIN plate looks scratched out, repainted, or re-stamped, that’s a major warning sign of tampering and likely fraud. A common scam is VIN cloning, where a thief assigns a stolen car a VIN from a similar vehicle to mask its identity. This makes confirming the integrity of the VIN crucial.

If the VIN tag on the dashboard is missing or looks tampered with, do not proceed until you understand why. Ask the seller for an explanation and proof of the car’s identity. In some cases, older cars or restored classics might have missing VIN plates – but even then, the VIN should appear elsewhere on the chassis. Extreme caution is warranted if the physical VIN looks altered.

2. Verify the VIN’s Format and Validity

A legitimate 17-digit VIN has a specific format and a built-in “check digit” to guard against random typos. You can do a basic validity check yourself through a VIN decoder tool. For example, the 9th character of a VIN is a mathematically calculated check digit that validates the rest of the number. If you enter the VIN into a decoder (like the free NHTSA VIN Decoder) and it says the VIN is invalid, re-check the VIN to ensure you copied it correctly. An invalid VIN (one that fails the check digit test or has disallowed characters) means either an error in reading it or a fraudulent VIN. Also verify that the VIN’s model year code (10th character) matches the seller’s stated year, and that the VIN only contains allowed characters (no I, O, Q for 1981 or later vehicles).

For instance, if the car is supposedly a 2010 model but the VIN’s 10th character is “Y” (which encodes 2000), something is wrong. It could be a simple mix-up or a sign the VIN was copied from a different vehicle. Do not ignore VIN inconsistencies. It’s much easier to resolve these before buying – either by correcting a clerical error with the DMV or walking away if fraud is suspected – than to sort it out after money changes hands.

3. Run a VIN Check with the National Insurance Crime Bureau (NICB)

Before paying for a full vehicle history report, use the free NICB VINCheck® service as an initial screen. NICB’s VINCheck will tell you if a vehicle has been reported stolen (but not recovered), or reported as a salvage total loss by participating insurers. This is a quick way to catch major red flags at no cost. For example, if NICB VINCheck returns a theft hit, you should immediately pause the transaction and involve law enforcement – you may be dealing with a stolen car.

To do this, go to the NICB’s VINCheck website and enter the 17-digit VIN. You’re limited to five searches per 24 hours per IP address. If the VIN comes back clean on NICB, note that this is not a full clearance – NICB’s database is not comprehensive. It only includes records from insurance companies that volunteer data, and doesn’t include police records or comprehensive accident data. But it’s a valuable free tool to catch stolen or salvaged vehicles. If NICB does show the car was salvaged, you’ll want to find out where and when, and ensure the seller has a legal rebuilt title for it (more on that later).

4. Obtain a Full Vehicle History Report

Next, obtain an official vehicle history report using the VIN. This is often the most important step to verify a used car’s background. There are a few options:

• NMVTIS Title Check: The National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS) is a U.S. government-mandated database that all states, junk yards, and insurance carriers report to. It’s a robust way to verify title history across states. You can access NMVTIS data through approved providers for a small fee. Approved NMVTIS data services, such as VIN Lookup or iSeeCars’ VIN Check Reports, will show the car’s current title status, including any “brands” (salvage, rebuilt, etc.), the last odometer reading on record, and the states where it’s been titled. It may also include junk/salvage reports and total loss records. NMVTIS is considered very reliable for title and salvage data because it’s legally required reporting. However, NMVTIS does not typically include detailed accident reports or maintenance records – it’s more about titles and brands.

• Carfax or AutoCheck: These are private history report providers that gather data from multiple sources. They can show accident reports, service history, open recalls, number of prior owners, registration renewals, emissions inspections, and more. If the seller has one available (many dealers provide a free Carfax for used cars currently for sale), be sure to review it. Don’t rely on the seller’s summary; read the actual report for yourself.

• State DMV Records: Some states allow you (or the current owner) to pull a title abstract or status report on the vehicle from the DMV. For example, Illinois offers an online Title and Registration Status Inquiry where you can enter the VIN to confirm the title status (for a fee), and Florida provides a public VIN lookup to check Florida title records. These can complement a vehicle history report by verifying what the state’s records show (e.g., that the title is clear of liens, or to confirm the odometer reading when last titled).

When you get a history report, scrutinize it carefully. Look for any indications of title issues or odometer inconsistencies. Pay attention to title “brands” noted (such as salvage, rebuilt, lemon, etc.). Check the dates and locations of title transfers – do they make sense given what the seller told you? For instance, if the report shows the car was titled in another state just last month, but the seller didn’t mention that, ask why. Look at the odometer readings at each sale or inspection; they should increase logically. Any big drop or oddly low reading(s) suggests odometer tampering. Also note multiple sales in a short time; if the car changed hands many times quickly, it could indicate problems.

Finally, verify that the VIN you looked up matches the vehicle you’re inspecting. It’s a prudent practice to run the VIN yourself (or with your chosen service) rather than trusting a report handed to you to ensure no misrepresentation. The report will usually repeat the VIN and description (year, make, model, engine) – double-check those against the car.

5. Check for Recalls and Safety Issues

While not directly related to title or fraud, it’s wise to use the VIN to check for any open recalls on the vehicle. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) provides a free recall lookup by VIN on its website. Enter the VIN, and you’ll see if the manufacturer has any outstanding safety recalls that have not been performed on that car (for example, airbag or brake recalls). If there are open recalls, you can have them fixed for free at a dealership. This step is about ensuring the car is safe to drive and up to date on important repairs. It’s an important part of due diligence, even though it deals with maintenance rather than ownership history.

6. Inspect the Vehicle’s Condition and Compare with the VIN Report

A physical inspection by you and, ideally, a trusted mechanic should complement the VIN history check. Sometimes issues that show up in a VIN history (like “airbag deployed in accident”) can be verified by looking at the car (are the airbags replaced? any frame welds visible?). Conversely, a mechanic might spot signs of collision repair or flood damage that weren’t recorded officially. Use the VIN report as a guide on what to inspect closely. For example, if the report shows “salvage – flood damage”, be extra vigilant for rust in unusual places, moldy odors, or corroded electrical components – signs the car was water-damaged.

During the inspection, verify that the VIN plates you find all match the report’s VIN. If the windshield VIN is missing but the report shows a normal history, it could mean the dash was replaced or tampered with. Ensure all VIN locations (dashboard, door, etc.) are still matching at this stage. If anything doesn’t match, stop and investigate.

Combine the power of paperwork and physical inspection. The VIN history report gives you an official record to compare against the car’s actual condition and the seller’s story. When everything lines up – the VIN is consistent everywhere, the history report has no nasty surprises, and the car’s condition checks out – you can proceed with much greater confidence.

Verifying VINs in Private Sales vs. Dealership Sales

Verifying a VIN is important whether you buy from a private seller or a dealer, but there are a few differences in the process and what you should expect:

• Availability of History Reports: Reputable dealerships often provide a free Carfax or AutoCheck report for their used cars as a selling point. In a private sale, however, the owner may not have a recent report. Don’t be shy about asking a dealer for the VIN or for the Carfax before committing – most will oblige (and if a dealer refuses to share the VIN or a history report, consider that a red flag). With private sellers, you will likely need to obtain the VIN yourself (always do this before money changes hands) and run your own checks. In either case, insist on seeing the actual title document to ensure the VIN on the title matches the car.

• Trust but Verify: A dealership might inspect the vehicle and perform some vetting (many certify that the car has a clean title, especially in states with consumer protection laws). Private sellers might not have done any verification – selling it “as-is.” Regardless, do your own VIN verification. Mistakes and fraud can occur in both scenarios. Dealers have been known to sell cars with undisclosed past damage if they themselves were unaware. Private sellers might be honest but mistaken about something like a lien or an out-of-state title issue. Treat any used-car transaction with the same due diligence.

• Title and VIN Guarantees: Many states hold licensed dealerships to higher standards. For example, a dealer generally must ensure you can obtain a valid title. If a dealer sells you a car and can’t provide a good title (e.g., if the VIN was cloned or the title was fraudulent), you often have legal recourse against the dealer – possibly even a return/refund via state DMV enforcement or bond claims. With a private seller, if you find out after purchase that the VIN was bogus or the title was junk, it can be harder to get your money back; you’d likely have to pursue them in court for fraud. Always verify the VIN before purchase, but know that dealing with a licensed dealer provides a bit more protection if something goes wrong.

• When to Walk Away: In a private sale, if the seller is reluctant to let you verify the VIN or won’t share the VIN in advance, that’s a huge warning sign. For instance, some scammers post online ads but refuse to give a VIN (or give a fake one) to prevent buyers from uncovering problems. Don’t proceed without that information. At a dealership, if something in the VIN check or the paperwork doesn’t add up (say, the car has a different VIN on the door than on the dash), firmly request an explanation or walk away. Dealers have been caught (though rarely) selling “switched VIN” vehicles – for example, where a dealer in one case sells a car whose VIN plate doesn’t match the chassis. No matter who the seller is, the onus is on you to confirm the vehicle’s identity and history. A legitimate seller (dealer or private) should welcome a thorough VIN verification because it only builds trust during the sale process.

• Additional Dealer Resources: If you’re at a dealership, ask if the car has any warranty or if it’s a certified pre-owned (CPO) vehicle. CPO cars undergo inspections by the manufacturer’s dealership, which might include VIN checks for recall completion and service history. Still, don’t assume this replaces your own checks. Use the resources at hand – some dealers might even allow you to use their computer to pull up NICB or NMVTIS reports on the spot. Private buyers can perhaps meet at a public location like a DMV or tag agency, where you might ask an official to quickly verify the VIN’s format or run it in their system (some DMV offices will confirm if a title number/VIN is valid in their state if you’re transferring ownership).

The process of verifying a VIN is fundamentally the same for private vs. dealer sales: check everything, trust nothing blindly. The differences lie in how much the seller can help and what your recourse is if something goes wrong. Always get that VIN, do the legwork, and don’t let a slick sales pitch or charismatic private seller deter you from verifying the vehicle’s identity.

What to Do if the VIN Doesn’t Match or Shows Problems

Sometimes during the verification process, you’ll encounter a serious issue – the VIN on the car doesn’t match the title, or the history report comes back with alarming information. Here’s how to handle these scenarios:

• VIN on Car and Title Don’t Match: This is a potentially deal-breaking problem. First, double-check that you read everything correctly (compare each digit). If it’s truly a mismatch, do not buy the car until it’s resolved. Politely ask the seller for clarification – it could be a clerical error (e.g., a typo on the title or registration). If it’s a minor typo (one digit off) and the seller seems genuine, you can accompany the seller to the local DMV to inquire about a correction before purchase. Minor VIN errors can often be fixed by a DMV inspection and reissue of the title. However, if the VIN on the car is completely different from the paperwork, assume the worst. This often means the car might be stolen or the title doesn’t belong to that vehicle. In such a case, you should walk away and consider reporting it to the authorities. For instance, if a private seller is trying to sell a car where the VIN plate on the dash is obviously from another vehicle (or the title VIN belongs to a different make/model), you may be looking at VIN fraud. You can call the local police (non-emergency line) and explain the situation – they can run the VINs through the national database (NCIC) to see if either is reported stolen. It’s better to involve law enforcement before a transaction happens if you uncover a major discrepancy like this.

• VIN History Shows Theft or “Clone”: If your VIN check reveals the vehicle was reported stolen (NICB or a title brand says “theft”) and the seller didn’t mention it, you should not proceed. In many states, it is illegal to sell a stolen vehicle (obviously), and you as the buyer cannot acquire title to a stolen car – it will be returned to the rightful owner or insurance company. Contact the police and provide the VIN info. Sometimes a VIN clone will slip through if the car wasn’t flagged as stolen in the particular database you checked, but later you find two cars share the same VIN. For example, you run a history report after purchase and it says a car with that VIN is registered in another state – that could mean you unfortunately bought a cloned vehicle. In that case, involve law enforcement immediately. The NICB notes that when VIN cloning is discovered, the purchaser loses the vehicle, which is returned to its true owner or insurer. Clearly a nightmare scenario for buyers, which makes catching it before purchase critical. Any hint of duplicate title or multiple registrations under the same VIN is cause to walk away.

• Salvage or Rebuilt Title Issues: If the VIN report shows a salvage history that the seller didn’t disclose, have a frank discussion with the seller. In many states, a seller (and especially a dealer) is required to disclose a salvage title. A salvage title isn’t necessarily a deal-breaker if you’re aware and the car has been properly repaired and inspected (and the price reflects it). But failure to disclose it is a trust issue. If you still consider buying a rebuilt salvage vehicle, ensure that it has passed the necessary state inspections to be road-legal (e.g., a “rebuilt” title issued after inspection). If the car just has a salvage certificate and not a rebuilt title, you generally cannot drive it legally until it’s repaired and inspected per state law. Proceed only if you are comfortable with the process and the vehicle’s repairs. Otherwise, you might decide to walk away. Also, be aware that some insurers charge more or refuse full coverage on salvage vehicles, and resale value is much lower. So, weigh those factors. If you uncover that a dealer sold you a salvage car without disclosing it (and advertised it as clean), that is grounds to file a complaint with your state’s attorney general or DMV enforcement.

• Odometer Fraud: If the VIN history suggests odometer rollback (and the car’s current mileage corroborates that), confront the seller. In a dealership scenario, bring it to the manager’s attention – it could be an error in reporting, but it could also mean someone tampered with the odometer. Federal law requires a mileage statement during ownership transfers for vehicles under 20 years old, and tampering with an odometer or misrepresenting mileage is a federal crime. If a private seller is caught in an obvious lie about mileage, you should reconsider the deal or demand a steep price reduction reflecting true mileage. You can also report suspected odometer fraud to your state DMV enforcement or directly to the NHTSA Office of Odometer Fraud Investigations. For example, if you have documentation (like the VIN report) showing 150,000 miles at a past date and the car only shows 80,000 now, that’s solid evidence. Authorities do take odometer fraud seriously, but your most immediate remedy is to avoid purchasing or to use that evidence in negotiations or legal action. Remember, if you unknowingly buy a car with false mileage, you’ve likely overpaid and may have unexpected maintenance issues to deal with sooner than expected.

• Liens or Title not in Seller’s Name: When verifying the VIN with state records, you might discover an existing lien or that the person selling isn’t the last titled owner. If a history report or state title check shows a lienholder (bank or finance company) and the seller doesn’t have a lien release, proceed with caution. The seller needs to pay off that loan to deliver a clear title. If they say they will “pay it off after you pay them,” that’s risky – better to do an escrow or loan payoff process with the bank directly. If the title is not in the seller’s name (say the VIN comes back titled to someone else or “John Doe or Jane Doe” and you’re dealing only with John Doe), clarify the situation. Maybe Jane is John’s spouse, which might be okay if she signs too. But if the names don’t match up at all, you could be dealing with a “flipper” who never registered the car (which can complicate the paper trail) or someone outright not authorized to sell the car. Always insist the person named on the title (the owner of record) is present to sign the sale. If not, walk away until they sort it out legally.

• Next Steps and Legal Remedies: If you decide to back out due to a VIN or title issue, make sure you withhold your signature and money. You are under no obligation to buy a car that has title defects or VIN problems. If you discover an issue after buying (say, the DMV later refuses to register the car because of a VIN problem), contact the seller immediately to resolve it. In many states, a private sale is “as is” but fraudulent misrepresentation of a vehicle’s identity or title might give you legal grounds to cancel the sale. For dealership purchases, most states have agencies or dealer boards that can assist in these situations. For example, you might contact the state DMV’s investigations unit or file a complaint with the state attorney general’s consumer protection division.

If you suspect criminal fraud (e.g., an organized scheme selling cloned vehicles or fake titles), report it. You can report vehicle fraud to local police, to your state DMV’s fraud investigation office, or even to NICB’s fraud hotline (800-TEL-NICB). NICB works with law enforcement on insurance fraud and theft cases. The DMV Investigations office in your state (if available) can handle cases like title fraud, curbstoning (unlicensed dealers), and odometer tampering. Provide them the VIN and all supporting evidence (history reports, photos, documents). Swift reporting might help recover losses or prevent others from being victimized.

In all cases, remember that you as the buyer have the power of the purse. If something doesn’t add up, you can always halt the transaction. It’s far easier to address a VIN discrepancy or title issue before you buy than after. A legitimate seller will want to clear up any confusion to make the sale happen. A shady seller will pressure you to ignore the issue – don’t. It’s not “just a DMV typo” until verified; it could be fraud. Be firm that the VIN must check out. If not, there are plenty of other cars on the market.

State-by-State VIN Verification and Title Check Guide

Vehicle laws and procedures can vary significantly by state. While VINs themselves are standardized, the process of VIN verification (especially for out-of-state cars) and what resources are available to check a VIN or title can differ in each state. Below is a comprehensive overview of how VIN verification and title checks are handled across the U.S., and what to do in each state if you encounter problems with a VIN or title. Use this as a reference for the specific steps or nuances in your state.

In every state, altering a VIN or knowingly selling a car with a false VIN is illegal. If you ever suspect a seller is doing this (for example, offering a car with no title and a VIN that seems off), you can and should report it to law enforcement. It’s not only about protecting yourself – it helps prevent larger criminal activity (auto theft rings, fraud schemes) from claiming more victims. The same goes for odometer fraud, which is a federal crime with fines and potential jail time. Agencies like the NICB and state DMVs work together to combat these issues, but they often rely on tips from observant buyers.

The specifics of VIN verification and title checks vary by state, but the overarching principle is the same: the VIN must match and the title must be legitimate for you to have rightful ownership. Always follow your state’s requirements for VIN inspections when bringing in a vehicle, and use the resources available (state DMV databases, NMVTIS, and reputable history report services) to check a vehicle’s background. If you encounter any discrepancies or suspect any fraud, involve the proper authorities immediately. By doing so, you protect yourself and help maintain the integrity of the vehicle market for everyone.

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Alabama: In Alabama, any vehicle being titled in the state for the first time (such as an out-of-state vehicle) must undergo a VIN inspection. An Alabama law enforcement officer or designated official will physically inspect the car’s VIN to verify it matches the paperwork. This VIN inspection is usually done at the time of registration at the county license office, and it ensures no stolen vehicles are being brought in with swapped VIN tags. Alabama encourages buyers to use the national NMVTIS system for title history, as Alabama itself participates in NMVTIS. If you find a VIN issue (such as a mismatch or other issue that makes you suspect a fake title) in Alabama, you can contact the Alabama Department of Revenue Motor Vehicle Division for guidance, or involve local law enforcement. Title fraud or alteration is a serious offense; the state will investigate cases of altered VIN tags or titles.

Alaska: Alaska requires out-of-state vehicles to be VIN inspected as well, typically by a DMV representative or police officer when you register the car in Alaska. The state DMV will verify the VIN on the vehicle matches the out-of-state title. Unlike some states, Alaska does not have a large online database for consumers to check VINs for liens or brands, so using NICB and NMVTIS reports is especially useful for Alaskan buyers. If a VIN problem arises (for example, a title from another state that doesn’t match the car), the Alaska DMV can perform a title search or require a bonded title process to resolve ownership. Always ensure the seller provides a clear title. Alaska will not register a vehicle without one, and any discrepancies will need to be cleared with affidavits or surety bonds.

Arizona: Arizona’s Motor Vehicle Division (MVD) participates fully in NMVTIS. When you register a car in Arizona, the MVD performs an instant title verification via NMVTIS to catch stolen or branded titles. If you are buying a car in Arizona, you can also purchase a title and registration motor vehicle record from the state (if you are the owner or have the owner’s consent). Arizona requires a level I inspection (which includes VIN verification) for certain situations, such as bonded titles, recovered stolen vehicles, or vehicles with missing titles. For routine out-of-state transfers, if paperwork is in order, a separate VIN inspection may not be required beyond the clerk checking the VIN on the title versus the application. However, if anything is questionable, the MVD can require an inspection. If your VIN lookup shows an issue like a salvage brand, Arizona will only issue a rebuilt salvage title after you complete repairs and pass a state inspection. Suspected fraud (e.g., someone altering a title) can be reported to the Arizona Department of Transportation’s Office of Inspector General.

Arkansas: Arkansas generally requires a VIN inspection for out-of-state vehicles when you title them in Arkansas. This can typically be done by a DMV official or sometimes a certified dealer. Arkansas does not offer a public online VIN-check service for title info, so buyers should rely on NMVTIS or private history reports. The state does brand titles for salvage, prior damage, etc., so check any Arkansas title for brand notation. If you run a VIN and find a title problem on an Arkansas vehicle (like an undisclosed lien or brand), you can contact the Arkansas Office of Motor Vehicle. They can verify the title’s status in their system. Law enforcement in Arkansas can also run a VIN to see if it’s stolen. If you suspect the VIN tag has been tampered with on a car in Arkansas, it’s wise to involve local police – Arkansas, like other states, treats VIN tampering as a crime.

California: California requires all vehicles coming from out of state to undergo a VIN verification before they can be registered in CA. This verification can be performed at the DMV or by authorized personnel (including California Highway Patrol officers or licensed VIN verifiers). Essentially, a DMV technician will physically inspect the car’s VIN (and emissions label) and sign off on a form (REG 31) to confirm the VIN matches the title and hasn’t been altered. California DMVs do not provide a free VIN history lookup to the public, but the CA DMV strongly encourages buyers to obtain a NMVTIS report or use services like Carfax to check a car’s background. In fact, the California DMV’s “Branded Titles – Look Before You Buy” guidance explicitly tells consumers to check the NMVTIS database for any title brands. If you discover after a purchase that a California title has a hidden brand or error, you can contact the DMV’s Vehicle Registration section for assistance. California also has a DMV Investigations Division – you can file a complaint if you encounter odometer fraud, title fraud, or a suspicious VIN. For example, if the VIN on the door doesn’t match the VIN on the dash, the DMV investigators (or CHP) can examine the vehicle for signs of VIN switching. California takes VIN fraud seriously; a confirmed case could lead to felony charges. On a more routine note, if you just find a minor VIN error on a California title (like one digit off), the DMV will typically require a VIN verification inspection and then correct the title.

Colorado: Colorado requires a VIN verification form (DR 2698) for most out-of-state vehicles being registered in Colorado. This can be completed by law enforcement, a licensed Colorado dealer, or certain DMV officials. The verifier will check that the VIN on the vehicle matches the out-of-state title or ownership document. If you’re buying a car in Colorado that was already titled in Colorado, a VIN inspection isn’t mandatory, but it’s still wise to verify the VIN yourself. Colorado’s DMV encourages use of NMVTIS title checks for buyers to see if a car from another state has any brands. Colorado also has a separate process for bonded titles if a VIN or ownership is in question. If a VIN issue arises – say a title isn’t available or you suspect a prior salvage – Colorado’s DMV can help determine the steps (which might include a certified VIN inspection by the Colorado State Patrol, especially if the car might be reconstructed or the VIN plate is questionable). Colorado, being a state with mountain floods and hail, also marks titles with brands like “Flood” or “Hail Salvage.” Check the Colorado title or VIN report for those. Suspected fraud can be reported to the DMV’s fraud line or the Colorado State Patrol’s auto theft unit.

Connecticut: Connecticut requires VIN verification for vehicles coming from out of state and 20 model years old or newer. This is done at DMV inspection lanes or by certain authorized personnel. Essentially, if you bring in a car with an out-of-state title, they will verify that the VIN matches and hasn’t been altered before issuing a CT title. Connecticut also runs the VIN through NMVTIS when titling to check for brands. For buyers, the Connecticut DMV doesn’t offer an online VIN check for history, but you can request title information by submitting a form (with a legitimate reason). The easier route is to use NMVTIS or a service like VinCheck.info which sometimes provides basic title info. If a VIN comes back with a salvage history from another state, Connecticut will require you to go through a Salvage Inspection process to get a rebuilt title in CT. If the VIN doesn’t match the title, the CT DMV will not complete registration until it’s sorted – this might involve getting a corrected title from the other state or, if fraud is suspected, involving the DMV Enforcement Division. Connecticut has DMV inspectors who handle VIN fraud and odometer cases, and the state police have an auto theft task force. As a consumer, if you encounter a shady situation (like a seller with a Connecticut car but a title that seems fake), you can reach out to those authorities.

Delaware: Delaware is a small state but thorough with titles. When you register an out-of-state vehicle in Delaware, you typically have to have it inspected, which includes verifying the VIN and having a safety and emissions check (Delaware combines these). The DMV lane inspectors will compare the VIN on the car to your documents. Delaware doesn’t provide a public VIN lookup for title status, but as a consumer you could contact the Division of Motor Vehicles with a VIN to confirm if any liens are recorded in Delaware’s system (if you have owner permission). Delaware titles are branded if they involve a salvage or rebuilt past, so a Delaware title itself will show that clearly. If you find a Delaware car’s VIN has an issue (stolen, or inconsistent VINs on the car), contact the Delaware DMV or state police. Given Delaware’s small size, they often coordinate quickly on such issues. Any fraud (like title washing attempts) can be reported to the DMV’s fraud unit.

Florida: Florida has a very consumer-friendly system for title checks. The Florida Department of Highway Safety and Motor Vehicles (FLHSMV) offers an online Vehicle Information Check where you can enter the VIN (or title number) to verify the title’s status and any brands in Florida. This can reveal if the vehicle has a Florida title, if it’s clean or branded, and if there are liens recorded. For VIN verification, Florida requires a physical VIN inspection for all used vehicles not currently titled in Florida (basically any out-of-state vehicle). This must be done using state form HSMV 82042 and can be completed by a Florida DMV examiner, a law enforcement officer, a Florida licensed dealer, or a notary (the notary just witnesses your signature if you’re self-certifying). In practice, when you bring an out-of-state car to register, you or the official will fill out the form confirming the VIN on the car matches the VIN on the title and that the odometer reading is noted. If you are buying a used car in Florida via private sale, it’s smart to use the FLHSMV online VIN check beforehand – it can tell you if, for example, the title is flagged or if the seller really is the titled owner. If the VIN check shows a lien, make sure that’s handled at sale. If it shows a brand (like rebuilt), ensure the seller was upfront about it. Florida deals with a lot of retired salvage vehicles (and unfortunately, flood cars due to hurricanes). If you suspect an out-of-state title washing (for instance, a car came from another state with salvage but now has a clean FL title), you can inquire with FLHSMV or use NMVTIS to confirm the history. FLHSMV also has a fraud investigation unit – for cases of title fraud, odometer fraud, or VIN cloning (the FLHSMV site specifically warns about “vehicle cloning” schemes). Report any such suspicions to them or the local police.

Georgia: Georgia does not require a routine VIN inspection for most out-of-state vehicles – the state relies on NMVTIS checks electronically when you apply for a title. However, Georgia will perform a VIN inspection in certain cases (e.g., if the vehicle’s VIN plate appears tampered or if it’s a grey market import without a 17-digit VIN). The Georgia Department of Revenue (which oversees titles) emphasizes that checking the VIN is one of the most important steps before buying any vehicle, whether from a dealer or individual. Georgia directs consumers to use NMVTIS and offers information on approved providers. The state even notes that some providers are free or low-cost and that some dealers might provide the info as a courtesy. Georgia itself does not have a public VIN lookup for title info (you’d have to request a title record formally), so using NMVTIS or a service like Bumper, Carfax, etc., is the way to go. If you encounter an issue (like a title brand or discrepancy) in Georgia prior to purchase, don’t buy until resolved; if after, you can reach out to the Georgia DOR Title Unit. Georgia law enforcement can run VINs for theft; Georgia has had instances of VIN cloning too, especially in metro areas – so the state encourages buyers to verify the VIN on all documents and inspect for tampering. Reporting suspected title or VIN fraud can be done through Georgia’s Attorney General or the DOR’s investigative services.

Hawaii: Hawaii, being isolated, has some unique aspects. For any car being shipped to Hawaii from the mainland, a VIN inspection is usually required upon arrival to register it in Hawaii (usually done during a safety check or by a designated officer). Hawaii’s counties handle registration, and they will check the VIN and the overseas shipping paperwork. If you’re buying a used car already in Hawaii, you mostly rely on the title provided. There isn’t a Hawaii-specific VIN check website, but Hawaii titles will show brands. If the car came from out-of-state always check its VIN history from before it arrived on the islands. If you find a mismatch or suspect a stolen car in Hawaii, report to the Honolulu Police (or respective county police). A common situation in this state involves military personnel shipping cars in and out of Hawaii, which means occasionally a car in Hawaii will have a mainland title. Make sure it gets properly titled in Hawaii, as an out-of-state title should be transferred within 30 days of arrival. If a seller in Hawaii only has an out-of-state title, proceed with a DMV verification of VIN and lien status before buying.

Idaho: Idaho requires a VIN inspection for all out-of-state vehicles being titled in Idaho. This is often done by a county DMV assessor’s office or a law enforcement officer who fills out a form. It’s a simple check to ensure the VIN on the car matches the title you submit. Idaho also offers a resource for consumers: the Idaho Transportation Department can perform a title record search (for a fee) if you need to verify something about an Idaho title. However, that process can take time. For a quick check, Idaho buyers should use NICB and NMVTIS. If a VIN shows a salvage history, Idaho will issue a “Rebuilt Salvage” brand on the new Idaho title after inspection. Idaho, like many states, will not register a vehicle if the VIN is altered or missing – it would require state police inspection and possibly a special ID number assigned. If you suspect a VIN has been tampered with in Idaho, contact the Idaho State Police Auto Theft Unit. They also handle odometer fraud cases. Idaho is mostly rural, but even rural areas see the occasional stolen vehicle move across state lines; a VIN check will protect you from inadvertently buying such a vehicle.

Illinois: Illinois has particular rules for specific title categories. For instance, any rebuilt salvage vehicle (8 model years old or newer) must be inspected by the Secretary of State (SOS) office to verify VINs and that no stolen parts are present. This means if a car was salvaged and then repaired, Illinois won’t title it as rebuilt until their officers check it out, comparing VIN stamps on engines, transmissions, etc., to ensure none are reported stolen. For everyday buyers, Illinois offers an online Title and Registration Status Inquiry through the SOS website, where entering the VIN can confirm the title’s current status. However, note this is a paid service (around $6 for a one-time lookup for non-subscribers). This service is more often used by dealers or title services. As a consumer, you might instead rely on the VIN history from Carfax or NMVTIS for Illinois data. Illinois titles will show brands like “Rebuilt” or “Flood” if applicable. If you discover a VIN discrepancy or suspect a fraudulent title in Illinois, the Secretary of State Police (a division of the SOS) is responsible for investigating vehicle fraud. They handle cases from fake titles to odometer rollbacks in Illinois. Illinois also has a robust anti-theft certification for homemade trailers and hot rods, which includes VIN assignment or verification as needed. The key advice for Illinois buyers: use the VIN to check for any title brands (the Illinois SOS site and NMVTIS work well for this) and be aware that if a vehicle was rebuilt, it should have an Illinois decal on the door jamb indicating that status after inspection.

Indiana: Indiana does require a VIN check for out-of-state vehicles. Specifically, when you bring an out-of-state car to Indiana, you must complete a VIN inspection (form VINSIG) which can be done by law enforcement or at certain BMV (Bureau of Motor Vehicle) branches. This verifies the VIN and ownership documents. Indiana’s BMV does not have a public VIN lookup for title info, so consumers should use NMVTIS or a private history check. According to one reference, “Out of state vehicles will have their VIN verified at registration” in Indiana. If you run a VIN and see title brands from elsewhere (or an odometer inconsistency), Indiana will carry those forward on the new title. If you end up with a car where the VIN on the title is wrong (say a typo), Indiana BMV can correct it with a VIN inspection and re-issue of a corrected title (they might require proof from the previous state). In cases of suspected stolen vehicles or VIN fraud, the Indiana State Police has an Auto Theft Unit. They often assist with VIN checks for older cars or assembled vehicles and can be consulted if something is fishy (like finding two different VINs on a vehicle). Indiana also has a title fraud tip line via the BMV if needed.

Iowa: Iowa generally doesn’t mandate a VIN inspection for standard out-of-state car transfers unless there’s some irregularity, but they will often do a VIN check on out-of-state titles during the titling process as a precaution. Iowa DOT (Department of Transportation) will run the VIN in NMVTIS as part of the title issuance. If you want to check an Iowa title, you may request an Iowa title search (with a form and fee), but better to use NMVTIS. Iowa titles note brands like salvage, rebuilt, or prior flood damage. If your VIN lookup reveals that a car had a salvage brandin another state and now has a clean Iowa title, that’s a sign of possible title washing – you should contact Iowa DOT’s Bureau of Investigation & Identity Protection. They oversee title fraud and can look into whether the Iowa title was issued in error or deceit. Iowa also enforces odometer disclosure; tampering cases can be referred to that Bureau or local law enforcement. For buying from a private seller in Iowa, make sure the seller’s name on the title matches and that no open liens are indicated on the title (Iowa titles will show “Lien:” if a lienholder is on record). You can call the Iowa DOT to verify if a lien release was filed, using the VIN and title number, for peace of mind.

Kansas: Kansas requires a VIN inspection for all out-of-state vehicles before you can title or register them in Kansas. This is done through the Kansas Highway Patrol’s VIN inspection stations (for a small fee). The inspector will check the VIN on the car, compare it to the title, and also run it through the NCIC (national crime database) to ensure it’s not stolen. They then give you a form to take to the DMV for titling. As a result, Kansas is pretty effective at catching stolen cars at the border. Indeed, Kansas notes “out of state vehicles will have their VIN checked at registration”. Kansas also has an interesting system: it is a fully participating NMVTIS state, so it checks title histories. If an out-of-state title has a brand, Kansas will carry that forward. For a consumer, the Kansas DMV doesn’t have a public VIN check site, but because Kansas will do it during the state transfer process, your focus should be on obtaining a VIN history beforehand to avoid surprises. If a VIN issue is found (like a mismatch or stolen vehicle indication), the Kansas Highway Patrol officers will put a hold on titling and investigate right away. They have authority to seize a vehicle if it’s confirmed stolen or if the VIN has been altered. If you innocently bought a car and Kansas later finds the VIN was fraudulent, the vehicle could be confiscated – another reason to verify before purchase. For recourse, Kansas has a fraud division in its DMV and the KHP can guide you if you have paperwork showing you were a bona fide purchaser (though getting money back would be a civil matter unless you find the perpetrator).

Kentucky: Kentucky requires an inspection for out-of-state vehicles by a sheriff’s office before titling. When you purchase a car from another state and want to register in Kentucky, take it to the county sheriff – they will verify the VIN and sign an inspection certificate. This ensures the VIN matches, and they often check for obvious signs of tampering. Kentucky is a title-only state (no annual inspections for emissions in most areas), so that one-time VIN check is key. For Kentucky-titled cars, the state will brand titles for salvage, rebuilt, water damage, etc., and it participates in NMVTIS for title checks. If you want to personally verify a Kentucky title, you can contact the Kentucky Transportation Cabinet’s Title Branch or use NMVTIS. One thing to note is that: Kentucky issues salvage titles (not roadworthy) and after repairs, issues rebuilt titles upon passing a rebuilt examination. So if you see a Kentucky title labeled “rebuilt”, it means it was previously a salvage title and then inspected to quality as rebuilt. If you find a VIN problem in Kentucky – say the numbers don’t match or two cars have the same VIN – definitely involve the Sheriff or state police. Kentucky has had issues in the past with stolen cars using fake VIN plates. The sheriff’s inspection is meant to catch that. If it slips past and you discover a problem later, alert the Kentucky State Police Vehicle Investigations unit.

Louisiana: Louisiana doesn’t routinely require VIN inspections for out-of-state vehicles in all parishes, but they do require you to bring the vehicle or a pencil tracing of the VIN when you register an out-of-state vehicle, to verify the VIN. Some OMV (Office of Motor Vehicles) offices may have law enforcement verify the VIN. It’s a bit inconsistent by location, but generally expect to verify the VIN one way or another. Louisiana also has a state-run interface called “Interface for Vehicle Records” but it’s not publicly open for VIN histories. Instead, a Louisiana buyer should get a NMVTIS report to see if a car has previous salvage or not. Louisiana unfortunately deals with flood vehicles (due to hurricanes). The state brands titles for flood damage and also reports them to NMVTIS. If you suspect a seller in Louisiana is trying to sell a flooded car without disclosure, run the VIN and check for a “water damage” brand. If something is fishy (e.g., VIN on car doesn’t match title, or title seems counterfeit), you can contact the Louisiana State Police’s insurance fraud and auto theft unit. They can verify VINs and have the power to seize stolen vehicles. Also, Louisiana OMV can flag a title if there’s a dispute and require a court order or bond to reissue if VIN issues arise.

Maine: Maine requires a VIN check for some out-of-state vehicles, particularly if the vehicle is coming from a non-title state or there’s any doubt about the VIN. For typical cases, if you have an out-of-state title, they usually accept it without a physical inspection. Maine is a state where older vehicles (prior to 1995) may not require titles, so verifying the VIN on older cars is important. Maine will assign a title number to older vehicles coming from out of state that had none, often requiring a VIN inspection or tracing to ensure identity. Maine doesn’t have a consumer VIN lookup tool, but the Bureau of Motor Vehicles can confirm if a certain VIN has a Maine title or not (likely by request). Maine titles are branded if necessary (e.g. rebuilt, salvage). One nuance is that Maine has a lot of rebuilt Canadian imports (especially trucks), and these will have Maine-assigned VINs starting with e.g. “ME” if they had to assign one. If you buy a vehicle in Maine and the VIN on the title starts with “ME” or “MVIN”, that indicates it’s a state-assigned VIN, often due to a lost VIN or custom build. Ensure that any assigned VIN plate on the car matches the paperwork. If a VIN issue arises (like suspected fraud), the State Police in Maine handle vehicle inspections and theft. Title fraud or odometer fraud can be reported to the BMV Investigations Unit.

Maryland: Maryland requires a VIN verification in certain cases, like registering an out-of-state vehicle without a title. For example, if a vehicle is coming from a state that didn’t issue titles for that type of vehicle, they’ll verify VIN for a new title. If you have an out-of-state title already, typically Maryland MVA will not require a separate inspection just for the VIN (they do require a safety inspection, but that focuses on vehicle condition). Maryland’s MVA allows individuals to request a title record for a fee if needed. The state is also part of NMVTIS, so they verify electronically. Maryland has an Investigations & Security division that looks at title fraud and related issues. If you as a buyer suspect a title might be fake or the VIN was tampered with, you can reach out to that office. Maryland also notes that if your car is stolen, police will enter the VIN into NCIC and MVA is notified. Any mismatch discovered at the MVA (like if you inadvertently bring in a stolen car to register) will prompt a call to police. Always double-check Maryland titles – they show liens and brands. And note: Maryland will not register a car with an open recall on airbags (Takata airbags) unless repaired, which is a unique law. The state actually uses VIN to check recall status during registration for certain recalls. This situation is where NHTSA’s recall check can be very useful.

Massachusetts: Massachusetts does not generally require a separate VIN inspection for out-of-state vehicles unless there’s some problem. You can usually register an out-of-state car with its title and an odometer disclosure. The RMV (Registry of Motor Vehicles) will verify the VIN on your title application and might inspect the car’s VIN if it’s present (some offices may do a quick check or ask for a tracing). Massachusetts does require a safety and emissions inspection annually, but that’s after registration and isn’t focused on the VIN except the inspector will verify the VIN matches the registration. Massachusetts is a state where you can request a vehicle title record (for a fee) but not an instant online check. Using NMVTIS or private reports is advisable. Massachusetts titles note brands like “Reconstructed” or “Recovered Theft” etc., if applicable. If you buy a car that was previously a salvage, Massachusetts will only issue a new title after it passes a Salvage Inspection by the state police. This inspection is thorough (checking receipts for parts, verifying VINs on major components) to ensure it’s not assembled from stolen parts. So if your VIN history shows a salvage title in MA’s past, ensure it has already undergone that process and has a “Rebuilt” title now. For VIN fraud or odometer issues, Massachusetts has a Registry Police/Inspector unit (often part of the Massachusetts State Police) that handles title and VIN violations. The state’s Attorney General also can prosecute car dealers for misrepresentations under consumer protection laws (e.g., selling a known flood car without disclosure). So you have avenues to report if needed.

Michigan: Michigan typically does not require a VIN inspection for vehicles coming from another state if you have a valid out-of-state title – they trust the documents and electronic title checks. They will run the VIN in NMVTIS and the SOS (Secretary of State) will check for brands. Michigan has no regular safety inspection, but if a vehicle is has salvage or assembled brands the Michigan State Police or designated inspectors must examine it (which includes VIN verification) to issue a rebuilt title or assign a new VIN. Michigan offers a verifiable Title Check service through a portal where for a fee you can get title history (this might be part of NMVTIS or their own records). If you suspect a VIN issue in Michigan (like tampering), note that Michigan has had problems with stolen vehicles being retagged due to Detroit’s auto theft rates. The Secretary of State’s office has an investigative unit for dealer fraud and title issues, and the State Police have an auto theft unit (often funded as “HEAT” – Help Eliminate Auto Theft). They can inspect a suspect vehicle’s hidden VINs (vehicles often have confidential VIN stamps that only law enforcement knows to check). As a buyer, if something seems off with a Michigan title or VIN, you can bring it to a SOS branch for verification before buying and they can confirm if that VIN is correct in their system or if a title is legit. Always ensure any Michigan title you get is the most recent; Michigan doesn’t print owner addresses on titles (for privacy), which is a bit different, but you can still focus on the VIN and any brand notation.

Minnesota: Minnesota requires a VIN inspection for out-of-state vehicles that do not have a title or if there’s a discrepancy. If you have a regular out-of-state title, they usually don’t physically inspect the VIN at the Deputy Registrar office (though some offices might peek at the dash VIN). Instead, Minnesota relies on NMVTIS and their internal database to verify the VIN isn’t flagged. Minnesota does have a Vehicle Title History request process if needed. One scenario requiring VIN verification is if you’re getting a bonded title or the vehicle is a prior salvage. Minnesota issues “salvage” titles and after repair, a “prior salvage” brand remains on the new title. If your VIN search shows a car was junked in another state, Minnesota might refuse to title it entirely (because some states issue non-repairable certificates that Minnesota will honor as non-registerable). If you discover a VIN/title issue after purchase, Minnesota’s Driver and Vehicle Services (DVS) has an investigation unit. For example, if a dealer in Minnesota sold you a car with an undisclosed salvage history, you can file a complaint with DVS and the dealer could face penalties. The state’s commerce department also deals with odometer tampering cases. Always check the Minnesota title for a brand or note like “Rebuilt Salvage” before buying, and match the VIN. Minnesota titles also show any duplicate title issue (which can indicate a problem if multiple duplicates exist, suggesting potential fraud). If the VIN doesn’t match, Minnesota won’t process the title, and you’ll need a law enforcement VIN verification and possibly a court order to complete a transfer.

Mississippi: Mississippi requires a VIN inspection on out-of-state vehicles via a form that a local law enforcement officer or designated agent fills out. It’s generally a simple process when you go to title a car from another state. Mississippi has relatively straightforward titling; it doesn’t have an online VIN check for consumers, so rely on national tools. The state will honor other state’s brands – for example, if a car was salvaged in another state, Mississippi will mark “Rebuilt” on the new MS title after you provide the rebuilt title and any required inspection. Mississippi has had issues with title fraud in the past (particularly after Hurricane Katrina and the related flood vehicles), so they may scrutinize out-of-state titles more heavily now. If you have a VIN issue, the Mississippi Department of Revenue’s Title Bureau handles title corrections and could guide you (like fixing a typo through verification). For suspected stolen vehicles or tampering, local police or sheriffs in MS counties would be the first call, as Mississippi doesn’t have a dedicated DMV police unit. However, the state Attorney General’s office might assist if it’s a larger fraud case.

Missouri: Missouri requires a VIN inspection for out-of-state vehicles before they can be titled in Missouri. Specifically, an ID/OD (Identification/Odometer) inspection is done by authorized inspection stations. Many Missouri inspection stations, like those that do safety inspections, can do VIN verification for a small fee, or you can have the Highway Patrol do it. This inspection looks at the VIN and odometer reading and compares it to any out-of-state title you have. This is done to catch stolen vehicles or VIN discrepancies. Missouri also requires anyone who rebuilds a salvage vehicle to get a branded title inspection by the Highway Patrol. Missouri is part of NMVTIS and also provides the Missouri Title Status through phone or inquiry if you have the VIN and want to verify a title’s existence. If you run a VIN and see a problem like “junk certificate – not to be registered” from another state, Missouri likely will refuse to title the car. If you only find out after buying that a car’s VIN was fraudulent, contact the Missouri Highway Patrol’s Auto Theft Unit; they routinely investigate VIN fraud and can track down if the VIN belongs to another vehicle. Missouri has some consumer protection via the Attorney General if a dealer knowingly sold a bad vehicle.

Montana: Montana often attracts out-of-state buyers for LLC registrations, but for an in-state buyer, a VIN inspection is needed for out-of-state vehicles (typically by a law enforcement officer or agency like the county treasurer’s office. Montana will issue new titles fairly easily if paperwork is in order. The state’s Motor Vehicle Division can perform title lookups on request (with a form) but offers no instant online check. Montana titles will indicate if a vehicle is salvage, rebuilt, or hail-damaged (Montana is known for a “Permanent salvage” brand or “Not salvage” notation for older vehicles). If you find out a car’s VIN had past issues (such as previously salvaged elsewhere), Montana will brand the title accordingly. Because of the popularity of Montana LLCs owning exotic cars, ensure if you’re buying a Montana-titled car that the seller has authority to sell (the title might be in an LLC’s name). Always match the VIN on the title to the car, and remember that some older titles might have shorter VINs if the vehicle was built before1981. Any fraud concerns in Montana can be addressed by the Title and Registration Bureau or local law enforcement; rural states like Montana often coordinate with state DOJ investigators for white-collar crimes, which includes title fraud.

Nebraska: Nebraska requires a VIN inspection for out-of-state vehicles. You need to take the vehicle (or in some cases, just the paperwork and a tracing) to either a local police officer or the county sheriff’s office for a VIN check. They will complete a form that you submit with your title application. This check is mandatory and helps catch stolen vehicles. Nebraska also participates in NMVTIS and encourages consumers to use it. The Nebraska DMV has an online Title Checker system where you input a VIN and it will let you know if the vehicle has any title brands or was reported as junk/salvage. If not publicly available, you can always purchase a NMVTIS report from the providers. If a VIN problem is found (e.g., the car was reported stolen in another state), Nebraska officials will put the title on hold and involve law enforcement. The Nebraska DMV’s fraud unit and state patrol can investigate any tampering. They also require that if a vehicle’s VIN plate is missing or damaged, you must apply for a Nebraska assigned VIN after a thorough law enforcement inspection.

Nevada: Nevada requires a VIN inspection for any vehicle being registered there from out of state. The DMV has a form (VP015) that a DMV official, peace officer, or licensed garage can fill out after physically inspecting the VIN. This is done at the time you register at a DMV office (they’ll often have someone come out to the parking lot to verify the VIN). Nevada’s DMV also provides an online VIN history lookup for the Nevada title status through their “Drive DMV” portal, but it’s mainly for checking if a title has been issued, not full history. For history, Nevada recommends NMVTIS and other reports. Nevada is vigilant about odometer fraud – Las Vegas in particular has seen scams. The DMV has an Compliance Enforcement Division that will investigate cases of odometer rollback or title fraud. If you, as a consumer, suspect a problem (like a car’s mileage is inconsistent or the VIN on the car looks altered), you can report it to that division. Nevada titles show brands clearly (e.g., “Restored” for rebuilt salvage). Note that Nevada uses “bonded titles” if ownership is in doubt; if you end up needing one because of a VIN/title issue, that involves the purchase of a surety bond and a waiting period.

New Hampshire: New Hampshire does not title vehicles older than 15 years, which can complicate VIN verification for older cars. If you buy a 16-year-old car in NH, there’s no title, just a bill of sale and registration – in such cases, other states often require a VIN inspection when you try to title it elsewhere. For New Hampshire itself, when you register an out-of-state vehicle, the town clerk’s office or a police officer will do a VIN verification if there’s no title (or even with a title, some towns do it as policy). NH is a bit decentralized (towns handle registration), but generally if you have an out-of-state title, they trust it and just process it. New Hampshire is part of NMVTIS now, so they check electronically for brands. If you’re buying in NH, try to get a VIN history to see if any prior states had issues because NH paperwork might not reflect it if the car is old enough to be exempt from titling. If you find a problem like an odometer discrepancy on a recent car, NH does have a Title Bureau investigations unit that handles those. Also, because NH is close to Canada, sometimes gray-market imports appear; NH will assign a VIN if needed after inspection for Canadian vehicles. Always ensure the VIN on an older car’s bill of sale matches the VIN on the car’s frame because no title exists to double-check. If there’s a mismatch, NH may require a police VIN verification and possibly a court order to sort out ownership.

New Jersey: New Jersey usually does not require a separate VIN inspection for out-of-state vehicles unless there is an issue; you present the out-of-state title to MVC (Motor Vehicle Commission) and they process it, relying on NMVTIS checks for brands. However, NJ does require an odometer disclosure and will verify that the VIN on the title matches the VIN you put on the application. If something doesn’t match, they could ask for a physical inspection by a state trooper. New Jersey has had instances of title fraud, particularly after flooding events (e.g., vehicles from Hurricane Sandy). The state has an online portal to check if a vehicle was ever issued a salvage title in NJ. As a buyer, using Carfax or NMVTIS is crucial in NJ given the volume of cars. If you suspect an issue, NJ has a division of the State Police that deals with auto theft and fraud. Also, the NJ Commission itself has an investigative unit. They have been known to conduct stings on unlicensed dealers rolling back odometers. Practically, if you find the VIN on the car doesn’t match the NJ title, report that to MVC before buying – it could be a clerical error or a sign of a cloned VIN.

New Mexico: New Mexico requires a VIN inspection for out-of-state vehicles. This can typically be done at MVD field offices or by law enforcement. They will check the VIN and odometer and fill a Certificate of VIN Inspection (form MVD-10030). New Mexico, being a NMVTIS participant, also checks the database when issuing new titles. New Mexico titles will carry forward brands (they’ll mark “Rebuilt Salvage” etc., if known). A unique issue in NM is the prevalence of older vehicles and some kit cars due to lenient registration for off-road vehicles, and these might have state-assigned VINs. If you are verifying a VIN in NM and it’s shorter than 17 digits (common on classic cars), you may need the MVD to manually search their records or use the engine/frame numbers. If a VIN discrepancy is found (like the title doesn’t match the car), NM MVD can require a VIN inspection by the State Police to validate which VIN is correct. The New Mexico Taxation & Revenue Department (which oversees MVD) has an internal investigations bureau for fraud, and the State Police auto theft unit can be engaged as well. Always ensure any New Mexico title you get is signed off properly, because NM still requires notarization of title transfers – an unsigned or improperly assigned title is a headache that could require a bonded title.

New York: New York does not require a VIN inspection for standard out-of-state vehicles at the time of registration – you simply bring the out-of-state title to the DMV, and they process it, trusting the documents and checking NMVTIS. However, New York has one of the strictest salvage vehicle examination programs in the country. If a vehicle coming into NY (or already in NY) has a salvage history, you cannot register it until it passes a Salvage Examination conducted by the DMV. In that exam, DMV investigators verify the VIN, ensure all major parts’ VINs (or serial numbers) are documented with receipts, and that none are reported stolen. They will confiscate any stolen parts found during the inspection. Only after passing will NY issue a new title labeled “Rebuilt Salvage”. So, if your VIN report shows a salvage brand on a car you’re buying, and you’re in NY, be prepared for that process. For regular cars, NY offers a service called “Title Certificate Status” if you have the VIN.. As a buyer, using Carfax is common in NY. In fact, many NY dealers provide them. If you find an odometer problem or title fraud issue in NY, the DMV’s Division of Field Investigation handles such cases. They can be contacted via a DMV office. New York’s DMV and Attorney General have in the past cracked down on dealers who sold cars with rolled odometers or undisclosed salvage, using consumer protection laws. If you were a victim, you can file a complaint. Also, NY police can run VINs on request; they frequently set up checks for stolen cars (especially in NYC). If you have any doubt about a VIN, you can ask a precinct to run it – they may do so as a courtesy to prevent auto theft.

North Carolina: North Carolina requires a** **VIN inspection for all out-of-state vehicles being registered in NC. This is often done by NC License and Theft Bureau inspectors (a division of the NC DMV). You’ll need to take the car (or have an inspector come) to verify the VIN, and they will check the car’s history as well. This step is mandatory and typically coordinated when you go to the DMV — they’ll direct you to an inspection station if needed. NC is also quite strict about vehicles with salvage history: if you bring one in, it must pass a DMV Theft Bureau inspection to verify the rebuild. North Carolina is known to occasionally require older vehicles (especially antiques) to be inspected by the License and Theft Bureau as well, to verify authenticity of the VIN because in the past there were issues with “re-VINning” older cars to avoid paperwork. For consumers, NC DMV doesn’t have a public VIN check site, but NC does make it easy to get a title history for a fee (you fill out a form requesting the title abstract). But practically speaking, using NMVTIS is faster. If you discover an issue, the NC License & Theft Bureau is who to call – they have sworn agents who investigate title fraud, fake VIN tags, odometer scams, etc. They can even go out and seize tags or cars if illegal. For example, if you bought a car and later found the VIN was altered, L&T Bureau can examine it and determine the true VIN (they have knowledge of hidden VIN locations) and then help you with next steps (which unfortunately could be confiscation if stolen). NC also requires that if an owner can’t provide sufficient proof of ownership, a bonded title must be obtained – that involves VIN inspection and a bond. Keep all this in mind for NC transactions. The DMV inspection is your friend, ensuring everything is legitimate.

North Dakota: North Dakota stands out as one of the few states that does not require a VIN inspection when you bring in an out-of-state vehicle. They rely on the out-of-state title and their database checks. This means if you move to ND with a car, you usually just mail in your title and forms to get an ND title issued, without anyone physically checking the car. Because of this, if you’re buying a car in North Dakota that was originally titled elsewhere, it’s extra important you verify the VIN and history – because the state might not have. North Dakota is small and has relatively low fraud incidence, but that doesn’t mean it can’t happen. Use NICB and history reports to check a vehicle’s status and history. North Dakota’s DOT can perform title lookups if needed, but not publicly online. North Dakota titles will show brands, and they do issue salvage titles for total loss vehicles. If you find out a car you bought in ND has a hidden issue, you might have to rely on civil action or ask the DOT for help, as ND doesn’t have a large DMV enforcement arm. The state does have an auto theft investigator or two within the Highway Patrol for stolen vehicles. If a VIN doesn’t match (e.g., you realize the VIN on the frame is different from the dash), contact the North Dakota Highway Patrol or local police to investigate. Because ND didn’t check on entry, they would want to know if something slipped through.

Ohio: Ohio requires a physical VIN inspection for all out-of-state vehicles at the time of title transfer. You can get this VIN inspection done at any Ohio deputy registrar license agency or at a car dealership that’s authorized, typically for a small fee (around $5). It’s a very routine check – they just ensure the VIN on the vehicle matches the title and record the odometer. Ohio is also connected to NMVTIS and Ohio is strict about salvage titles. If you bought a car that had a salvage title from elsewhere, Ohio will issue a salvage title and you’ll need to go through the Ohio State Highway Patrol inspection to get a rebuilt title. Ohio’s BMV doesn’t have a public VIN-check tool, but one can request vehicle records with cause. Ohio titles show any brands and also will indicate “ACTUAL,” “NON-ACTUAL” or “EXCEEDS MECHANICAL LIMITS” for odometer status on the title itself, which is important. If you find an odometer discrepancy, Ohio likely will stamp the new title “NON-ACTUAL MILEAGE.” If you suspect fraud (like a fake title or VIN plate), Ohio has a Title Investigation Unit (usually through County Clerks or the BMV) that can examine it. Additionally, the Ohio State Highway Patrol has an Auto Theft unit that can inspect vehicles for stolen parts or fraudulent VINs. They routinely inspect assembled kit cars, etc. For example, if the VIN inspection at the deputy registrar raises concerns, they might refer it to the State Patrol for a more thorough look. As a consumer, you can also call a Highway Patrol post and ask for an officer to verify a VIN if you have concerns before purchase.

Oklahoma: Oklahoma does not require a separate VIN inspection for most vehicles if you have an out-of-state title, but according to one source, “out of state vehicles must have the VIN verified when they are registered” in Oklahoma. In practice, when you go to the tag agency in Oklahoma with an out-of-state title, they often have a form where a tag agent will step outside and verify the VIN on the car, or they may accept a prior verification. Oklahoma’s motor vehicle operations are somewhat decentralized through tag agencies. It’s wise to call ahead and see if you need to bring the vehicle. Many tag agents are not going to crawl over the car, but law enforcement can do it if needed. Oklahoma is implementing systems with NMVTIS, so they check for brands. If you want to pre-check a VIN, you’d have to use a third-party because Oklahoma doesn’t do public checks. If a VIN issue arises, e.g., a stolen car was sold to you, Oklahoma has the Oklahoma Tax Commission’s Motor Vehicle Division that can investigate title issues, and the state’s Bureau of Investigation or local police handle stolen vehicles. Oklahoma titles, like many, will reflect brands (and they stamp “Rebuilt” clearly when applicable). The state in general expects buyers to beware, though there’s a statute requiring sellers to disclose salvage title status. If you were defrauded, you could potentially use that law to rescind a sale.

Oregon: Oregon does not require emissions or safety inspections statewide, but importantly, “out of state vehicles must be VIN verified” when coming into Oregon. This VIN inspection can be done at the DMV or by law enforcement, and is usually part of the title process for newcomers. Oregon DMV clerks often perform these inspections by quickly looking at the car, or they might accept a form from another official. Oregon’s DMV will check NMVTIS for any brands – Oregon strongly encourages checking vehicle history and even references NMVTIS on their site. If you suspect a VIN problem, the Oregon DMV has an investigative unit (part of ODOT) that can handle title fraud issues. Also, Oregon State Police have an auto theft task force, particularly around Portland. Oregon has seen cases of VIN cloning, especially with high-end cars shipped to other countries, but for local sales, it’s not rampant. Still, if a VIN doesn’t match or the title is missing, you may need to go through Oregon’s bonded title process which requires a VIN inspection and a three-year bond. Always double-check an Oregon title’s pertinent sections, which note if a vehicle was reconstructed from assembled parts. Oregon also prints previous state and title numbers on their titles, so if you see, for example, “PRIOR TITLE – CALIFORNIA ########”, that’s a clue to check CA history too.

Pennsylvania: Pennsylvania doesn’t generally require a VIN inspection for a standard out-of-state vehicle if you have a valid title – the PennDOT agent processing your title transfer will verify the VIN on the paperwork matches the vehicle, and they might do a tracing or have a certified inspection mechanic verify the VIN if the vehicle isn’t present. In practice, many authorized tag and title places have a mechanic or notary who can do VIN verification by looking at the car. If the car isn’t physically there, they’ll often require a tracing (you put paper on the VIN plate and rub a pencil to imprint it) to attach to the title application. Pennsylvania also requires enhanced inspections for reconstructed vehicles; if your VIN was branded elsewhere, you’ll need to follow PennDOT procedures to get a reconstructed title (including photos of the vehicle, receipts, and a thorough inspection by an enhanced vehicle inspector). For a buyer, PennDOT doesn’t have an online VIN lookup for history, but any brands or “True Mileage Unknown” statuses will be on the title. If you find a problem, Pennsylvania has a Vehicle Fraud Investigation unit (often through the state police or DOT). Notaries in PA are actually on the front lines – a notary/title agent processing a sale who spots something off (like a suspicious seller with no ID or a title that looks altered) may refuse to process it and report it. If you, post-sale, find you were cheated (odometer rolled back or a washed title), you can file a complaint with PennDOT and the PA Attorney General. Pennsylvania has a fraud tip line too.

Rhode Island: Rhode Island requires vehicles coming from out of state have their VIN verified. Usually, the DMV will accept a VIN inspection form completed by a police officer or RI inspection station. Rhode Island is small enough that this is straightforward. RI doesn’t title vehicles older than 2001 (as of now), so older cars come with just a registration – if you’re bringing one in, the VIN still needs verifying against that registration. RI also has biennial safety and emissions inspections, but that’s separate and after registration. However, inspection stations do check that the VIN on the car matches the registration (so any mismatch would get flagged then). Rhode Island’s DMV can provide a title status if you call with a VIN (for example, to confirm if a title is clear or if there’s a lien), but often they’ll require a formal record request. If a VIN problem crops up, RI State Police are the ones to handle stolen car investigations. Given RI’s size, if a car is stolen or cloned, they coordinate with surrounding states quickly. For example, if you bought a car in RI and later Connecticut police say it’s stolen, expect RI and CT to work together on it. For any title anomalies, the RI DMV Enforcement section can help. They oversee dealerships too, so if a dealer misled you, you can file a complaint.

South Carolina: South Carolina does not have periodic vehicle inspections, and their VIN verification for out-of-state vehicles is relatively lax. According to one source, “No safety inspection/approval at all in South Carolina”. While that specifically refers to safety inspection, it implies there isn’t a stringent VIN inspection either. If you have a clean out-of-state title, SCDMV will typically accept it and issue a SC title without requiring a separate VIN check. They will, however, run the VIN in NMVTIS and to check their databases for theft or brands. So behind the scenes, the VIN is being verified. As a buyer, you can’t just walk into SCDMV and ask them to run a VIN for you due to privacy laws, so do your own homework with NICB or a history report. SC titles will show brands from previous states (they print e.g. “Salvage” or “Previously Salvaged” on the title). If you discover a VIN issue later (like the car is stolen or the title was fake), notify law enforcement. South Carolina has a Division of Motor Vehicles enforcement arm that can investigate fraud, but local law enforcement would likely take the stolen vehicle report. SC also has a consumer protection department that might help if a dealer deliberately sold a problematic car. Note that SC’s DMV website has a free VIN lookup for recalls (they integrate the NHTSA recall check) – which isn’t helpful for title verification, but useful while you’re verifying everything else.

South Dakota: South Dakota requires VIN inspections for out-of-state vehicles under certain conditions – typically if the vehicle’s title is from a state that is not electronically verified, or if the vehicle is a certain age. Many times, you can get an officer or county treasurer’s office to verify the VIN. South Dakota is part of NMVTIS and will catch most title brands. For consumers, SD doesn’t have an online VIN check except through NMVTIS. If you have issues, the SD DMV (Motor Vehicles Division) in Pierre can assist. They are smaller and often quite helpful on the phone about what steps to take. If a VIN turns out stolen, SD relies on local sheriffs and state investigators to sort it out. South Dakota is known for people registering vehicles (especially RVs) via mail for tax reasons, so they do emphasize having proper VIN documentation to avoid fraud in absentia. If you’re in SD and suspect an odometer or title problem, you could reach out to the state’s Department of Revenue (which oversees the DMV) or the state’s Attorney General consumer protection.

Tennessee: Tennessee does not uniformly require VIN inspections for all out-of-state vehicles, but some county clerks may ask for one if the title looks odd. Generally, you present an out-of-state title to the county clerk for registration and they process it. Tennessee is on NMVTIS so they do electronic checks. If a car has a salvage history, TN will issue a salvage or rebuilt title accordingly, and they require a VIN inspection by the Anti-Theft Unit of the Tennessee Highway Patrol for rebuilt vehicles. For a regular used car sale, Tennessee doesn’t provide a VIN check site, but you can submit a request for a title search through the Department of Revenue. If you suspect foul play (like a fake title or rolled odometer), Tennessee’s DMV enforcement is handled by the Department of Revenue’s Special Investigations or the THP’s Criminal Investigation Division. On Tennessee titles, check for brands in the “Remarks” section. Tennessee still prints the full Social Security Number of the owner on older titles (pre-2000s) – which is irrelevant to VIN verifying but information you may not want on a title if you plan to own an older car in this state. If you find the VIN on the chassis doesn’t match the dash (for example), you can ask the THP to do a VIN inspection. They have specialists in auto theft who can identify re-tagged vehicles.

Texas: Texas strongly encourages VIN checks via NMVTIS Title Check before buying any vehicle, whether from a dealer or individual. The TxDMV doesn’t require every out-of-state car to have a separate VIN inspection as part of registration (the paperwork and an inspection for safety can suffice), but if the vehicle falls under certain categories (like an out-of-state salvage or assembled vehicle), then a Texas DMV certified inspection (VI-30) by auto theft investigators is required. In normal cases, you take your out-of-state title to the county tax office, and they will verify the VIN on the title application matches the title, and likely run it in the national database. Texas has a Title Check page that links out to NMVTIS providers and explains how a NMVTIS report gives title history across states. They explicitly warn to “Look before you buy” using that report. If your VIN search or NMVTIS report shows the car was junked or has a lien, definitely address that before buying. In Texas, any title irregularity often ends up at the TxDMV’s Vehicle Titles and Registration Division. Texas also has a DMV Enforcement division that can investigate title fraud, and the Texas Department of Public Safety has a Motor Vehicle Theft Service for stolen car rings. If you accidentally bought a cloned vehicle in Texas, be aware that once discovered, it will be taken away, and you’ll have to pursue the seller legally (often difficult if they vanish). Texas offers a compensation fund for victims of title fraud in limited cases through dealer bonds if a licensed dealer was at fault. If it was a private seller scam, it’s tougher. Texans should use the VIN to check everything possible ahead of time – which the state, to its credit, heavily advocates.

Utah: Utah requires a VIN inspection for all vehicles coming from out of state. This can be done by a DMV employee at the office or by a peace officer on a form. The inspection is straightforward and simply verifies the VIN and mileage. Utah’s DMV will not issue a title without that verification if the vehicle was previously titled outside the state. Utah also has safety and emissions inspections (safety no longer statewide, but emissions in some counties), although those don’t typically involve VIN checking beyond matching to registration. For title history, Utah participates in NMVTIS and also allows owners to request a title record. If a VIN history reveals a brand, Utah will reflect it on the UT title (they add a brand like “rebuilt/restored” etc.). If you suspect something like a washed title or odometer fraud, Utah’s Motor Vehicle Enforcement Division (MVED) is the agency to contact. MVED handles auto dealer licensing and investigations, and they are effectively the “DMV police” in Utah. They have officers who can inspect vehicles and they do sting operations on curbstoners and fraudsters. They are a great resource if you think you’ve encountered a tampered VIN or a fake title in Utah. Also, if you have only a bill of sale and the VIN isn’t in the system, MVED deals with assigned titles and VIN assignments. Always verify the VIN on any official Utah paperwork like the title or registration card – sometimes data entry errors happen, and getting them corrected requires another VIN inspection, so catching it early is best.

Vermont: Vermont, similar to New Hampshire, does not title vehicles older than 15 years. So many cars in VT (especially older or enthusiast vehicles) might have registration only. Vermont will issue a new title for 15 years and newer vehicles coming from out of state, and they require a VIN verification for those. Typically, a police officer or DMV employee can do it, or if the vehicle is nearby, the Vermont DMV office staff might come out and verify the VIN. If you’re doing a mail-in registration (Vermont is famous for allowing out-of-state people to register old cars by mail), they require a VIN verification form completed by law enforcement if the vehicle is coming from out of state with no title (common for antique motorcycles etc.). Vermont uses NMVTIS, so they will know if a vehicle was branded in another state. They also check for stolen status. Vermont has relatively few cases of title fraud, but it’s not immune. If you have an issue, Vermont DMV Enforcement or local law enforcement can help. If you found that the VIN on your Vermont registration doesn’t match the car (due to error or fraud), get a verification done and contact DMV to correct the record. Vermont’s small size means they can often handle these on a case-by-case personal basis. Be aware that, because Vermont is known for not titling old vehicles, some people try to launder titles by bringing a branded car to VT once it’s 16 years old. It might lose the brand because it gets no title (just registration). However, NMVTIS would still have the brand record. If you see a clean Vermont registration for an older car, do a VIN check to see its earlier history in NMVTIS.

Virginia: Virginia requires a VIN verification for some out-of-state vehicles, especially if there’s no title (like some trailers or older cars). If you have an out-of-state title, VA DMV typically doesn’t do a physical inspection at the counter, but they do carefully match the VIN on paperwork and may ask for a tracing if they suspect something. Virginia also requires a State Police VIN inspection for certain cases like reconstructed vehicles, recovered thefts, or cars coming from overseas. Virginia’s DMV is integrated with NMVTIS, and they also run a VST (Vehicle Status Transaction) check between states for new titles. Virginia has online services for its residents, but not a general VIN history check for prospective buyers. Use NMVTIS or private reports for that. If you detect a problem (like the title you’re given has a VIN that doesn’t match the car), Virginia DMV won’t complete the transfer until it’s resolved. That could mean the seller has to get the prior state to correct the title or you might need a VA assigned VIN if none of the numbers match. Virginia’s DMV Law Enforcement Services will investigate title fraud and tampering. The state has stiff penalties for altering VINs (Class 6 felony). The Virginia State Police has a Safety Division that also deals with vehicle inspections and can verify VINs if needed (especially because every car in VA gets an annual safety inspection — those inspectors check the VIN on the car against the registration, so a mismatch there could reveal an issue). As a buyer, if something odd comes up in Virginia, contact DMV or State Police, and don’t finalize the deal until you’re satisfied.

Washington: Washington State requires VIN inspections for out-of-state vehicles under certain circumstances. If the title is present and clearly in order, they often waive a physical inspection. But if the vehicle is coming from another country, or if there’s no title (like you have only a bill of sale), or if the car was reported stolen and recovered, then a Washington State Patrol VIN inspection is mandatory. Many people moving to WA with a car simply bring their title to DMV and register without an inspection – the clerk may visually check the VIN on the title against what’s on the application. Washington offers a Title Verification Letter (for a fee) if someone wants to verify title details for legal purposes, but not an on-demand VIN check site. As a buyer, definitely use NMVTIS or Carfax to see if the car has a brand elsewhere. Washington will brand the new title but you’d want to know about it in advance. If you run into issues like discovering multiple VINs on the car, Washington’s WSP troopers in the Auto Theft unit are the ones to handle it. They run the VIN inspection program, and they will locate secondary VINs, run checks, and if needed, assign a new Washington VIN (a blue tag) if the original VIN is in question and the car is deemed legally yours. It’s a process, but at least there is a path forward if, say, you have a classic car missing a VIN. WSP can create a new identity for it after investigation. For fraudulent sellers, Washington’s Attorney General can step in on consumer fraud, and DOL (Dept. of Licensing) can revoke dealer licenses for misconduct.

West Virginia: West Virginia usually requires an VIN inspection by a law enforcement officer for any out-of-state vehicle being titled in WV. They have a form (DMV-1-B I believe) where the officer verifies the VIN, make, model, etc., and you include that with your title application at the DMV. This practice helps weed out stolen cars. The WV DMV will issue a branded title if it learns the car was salvaged elsewhere. For personal VIN checks, WV doesn’t have an online tool; go with national services. If you do find a problem, the WV DMV has an Enforcement Unit (which is small) or you can go to the State Police. West Virginia’s small communities sometimes mean deals are informal, but don’t skip the official title work. WV is strict that you must complete the title transfer within 30 days or face fees, and they want that VIN inspection done. If the VIN on the car doesn’t match the out-of-state title, the inspecting officer likely will catch it and not sign off. Then it’s on the seller to fix it in the other state or on you to decide not to proceed.

Wisconsin: Wisconsin requires a VIN inspection for certain vehicles such as imported vehicles or vehicles without a proper title. For a typical out-of-state transfer, they don’t require an inspection if the title is present and valid. the DMV will verify the VIN from the documents and via NMVTIS. Wisconsin DMV offers an online Title & Lien Lookup for its own titles (by VIN or plate) which can show if a Wisconsin title exists and any lien. But for vehicles not yet titled in WI, you’d rely on other sources. If a VIN issue arises (like you bought a car and the WI DMV says the VIN comes up stolen), the DMV would coordinate with the Wisconsin State Patrol or local police to investigate. Wisconsin has a Consumer Protection department that has dealt with cases of odometer fraud and dealer misrepresentation, so you could involve them as well for recourse. On Wisconsin titles, brands are noted like “remanufactured” or “previously salvaged.” If you see “TMU” (True Mileage Unknown) or “Not Actual,” that’s an odometer issue. If a private seller didn’t tell you about that, you have cause to question them. Wisconsin also requires dealers to provide a Wisconsin Buyer’s Guide (similar to the FTC Used Car Buyers Guide) that discloses any title branding – an undisclosed brand is illegal for a dealer to sell. So if you catch a dealer failing to inform you, you can report them to DMV enforcement division.

Wyoming: Wyoming typically requires a VIN inspection for out-of-state vehicles. Law enforcement or a Wyoming DOT officer can do it. Some county clerk offices can also do it if they have the capability. Wyoming is a small state population-wise, so often the county treasurer’s office (which handles plates) might simply ask a deputy sheriff to verify the VIN. They use a form for this purpose. Wyoming participates in NMVTIS, so they’ll catch prior brands when issuing a new title. Wyoming has many older or ranch vehicles that might not have been titled (if used solely on private land), so sometimes a sheriff’s inspection and a bonded title are needed to get it on the books. In this case a VIN inspection is absolutely required, and if the VIN is missing, the state can assign one. If you encounter a suspicious situation, like someone selling a truck with a title that doesn’t match, definitely involve the county sheriff – likely they know the person or the vehicle in a small town, and they will set things straight or open an investigation. Wyoming’s Attorney General would handle consumer fraud complaints, but those are rarer; most often, issues are resolved at the local level with law enforcement confirming the VIN and proper title.

District of Columbia (Washington, D.C.): The District requires essentially the same procedures as a state DMV. If you bring a car from out of state, the DC DMV requires a VIN inspection (usually when you go for inspection or at the service center) to verify the VIN and odometer before issuing a DC title. DC does not have a publicly accessible VIN check tool, but they do enforce regulations strictly on dealers and individuals. If you suspect a VIN issue in DC, the DC DMV has a Fraud Investigation unit (Office of Service Integrity) that investigates DMV-related fraud, which would include forged titles, altered VINs on documents, etc. Also, because DC is small, they coordinate with MD and VA on auto theft issues. A car with a fraudulent VIN in DC will likely get flagged when you try to register it, and the MPD (Metropolitan Police Department) auto theft unit would get involved. So as a buyer in DC, be as vigilant as anywhere else, and perhaps even more so because recovering losses in DC might require dealing with multiple jurisdictions if the seller came from VA or MD. Always check VIN consistency and use a history report – plenty of cars from all over the country end up being sold in the DC area due to the shifting political population, so you can’t assume anything about a car’s past.

Puerto Rico and Other Territories: As a side note, if you’re buying a car that was titled in Puerto Rico or another US territory, VIN verification steps can be a bit different – often those vehicles need to be retitled when brought to a state, and a VIN inspection will certainly be required, along with translation of documents. Always allow extra time for those processes.